In the middle of Riga Bay, near the Latvian coast, you can find the island called Runö in Swedish, Ruhnu in Estonian. The island's isolation is one reason why a very special culture persisted for centuries.

History

Another contender is the Latvian word "ruonen", 'seal', though others consider that the Latvian language came to the area too late to influence the name of the island. In any case, the Swedish culture of Runö, is of a very old age, and its origin is hidden in the mists of prehistory.

The earliest reference to Runö and its Swedish population is dated 1341. According to the "episcopal letter" (an Ukas from the bishop of Curland), the inhabitants of Runö were to be dealt with according to Swedish law.

This was not only a matter of language: Swedish peasants had a stronger position compared with most European countries. Neither the feudal rule of Sweden's period as a great power, nor the tsarist practice of treating peasants as property, never took root on Runö. The peasants practised fishing and farming, and paid their taxes to a variety of masters during the centuries. From time to time they had to refer the old episcopal letter to preserve their relative freedom.

On the collapse of tsarist Russia, the Baltic Sates were formed. But neither Estonia nor Latvia could claim the Runö, according to the people's nationality. In two letters to the Swedish King, the Runö inhabitants themselves demanded that they be assimilated as part of Sweden proper. As a compromise, the inhabitants were given a choice as to which of the neighboring Baltic States they would join. The choice fell upon Estonia, perhaps because the country had a Swedish speaking minority, something that was lacking in Latvia.

The establishment of the new state of Estonia after the first world war brought about the end of the rule of Swedish law on Runö. The island was now formally part of Estonia and subject to Estonian law. The islanders still spoke their old Swedish dialect, called "Runsk", while at school they spoke standard Swedish.

At the end of the second world war an agreement was made with the Nazi-German occupation power: those who wanted to were free to move to Sweden, and when the Soviet troops approached in 1944 the population was evacuated. The Germans did not allow the men to move, and these fled in small boats to Sweden. Thus the 700-year-old Swedish culture at Runö came to an end.

In Soviet times many Estonian-speaking families moved to the island. Efforts were made to build a fishing harbour at the SE point. The old houses with straw roofs of were gradually destroyed by weather and wind. Today only a few remnants of the old village remain, but these include the 17th-century wooden church, Estonia's oldest.

During s/y Ellen's visit to the island in summer 1997, we met a group of 30 Swedes, former Runö inhabitants or relatives, visiting their old island. One purpose of the visit was to claim back property and land lost during the Soviet period. Estonian authorities were on the island to carry out a survey. The situation was complicated. Estonian law recognizes the rights of both the old owners and the people presently living on the island. We were conscious of an atmosphere of negotiation, compromise and dealing. It seems clear that there will once again be Swedish influence on Runö, and some of the former Runö Swedes were already talking about building summer houses on the island.

Approaching

Sailing over Riga Bay to Runö is pure and simple sea-sailing. However, the waters close to the island are shallow.

The fascinating history and the islan's isolated location makes the effort to visit Runö well worth a try.

Pictures from the image sharing service flickr